Independent Used-Car Dealers – Independent used-car lots are a potential source of affordable cheap second hand cars. Many lots have older vehicles that can be real bargains, but might require a little work. You should take care to determine if the price is fair and that the vehicle has no hidden problems. Most used cars are sold “as-is” and come without any kind of warranty or return policy. Check out local used-car lots in your area but also consider large national or regional used-car dealers such as CarMax.

New-Car Dealer Used Car Lots - Many new-car dealers also sell pre-owned cars. Most new-car dealers only offer relatively late model used vehicles that have been taken in trade or are off-lease, and are in good condition — and are relatively expensive. But bargains can be found. Therefore, it doesn’t hurt to check out local new-car dealers but also look at other sources listed below. Some new-car dealers sell “certified” used cars — at a higher price. These cars have been inspected thoroughly and come with a short guarantee.

Buy-Here-Pay-Here (BHPH) Dealers – BHPH dealers are a different kind of used-car dealer that provides in-house financing, usually with no credit check. Most BHPH dealers are local and can be recognized by their “we finance anyone” or “no credit check” banners. Be aware that interest rates are usually very high and payment terms are strict. See “Should I Buy From a Buy-Here-Pay-Dealer Car Dealer” for more details.

Special Promtional Deals on New Cars- Don’t overlook this year’s (or last year’s) brand new cars as a potential source of good bargains. There are currently tons of heavy rebates and other incentives being offered by car manufacturers, especially on American brands, and especially on last year’s models, that can often make certain new cars less expensive than used cars of the same make and model. See New Car Rebates and Incentives.

Used Cars Online – Although the Internet is a good potential way to find cheap cars, take extra caution due to the possibility of getting scammed. If a deal seems to be too good to be true, it probably is. Craigslist and Autotrader are particularly frequented by scam artists. We recommend sticking with sites such eBay Motors, which has a buyer protection program (only for cars puurchased through the eBay site) and UsedCars.com, the Internet’s largest used car buying service, with over a half a million used car listings.

Lease a New Car – If your goal is simply to get low monthly car payments, leasing a new car can be 30% to 60% less expensive than buying the same car with a loan – cut your payments in half. This allows you to drive a brand new car for the same or less money than you might spend on a late model used car. However, be sure to read the free Lease Guide before you make a decision to lease. It’s cheap but may not right for everyone.         

Take Over a Car Lease - Take over a cheap car lease from someone who needs to get out of their lease early. Online services such as Swapalease offer car lease takeovers at bargain prices. These are almost-new cars being offered by sellers who are often desperate to get out of their leases. These can be excellent deals. It is the cheapest way to drive a almost-new car.

Government Car Auctions – This is an often overlooked source of cheap cars and trucks. Local, state, and federal government and law enforcement agencies frequently auction surplus and seized vehicles. Outstanding bargains are possible. To participate, you have to know where and when the auctions take place, and how to bid. See Government Auto Auctions for more details.

Damaged and Salvage Cars – Cars that have been damaged or salvaged can be a good source of cheap cars. See Damaged Cars for Sale for more details.  Salvage Auctions and Repossessed Car Auctions are other possible sources of cheap cars and project cars for sale. Obviously, a lot of caution must be taken to make sure you know exactly what you’re buying but, if done correctly, some great deals can be had this way.

Police Seized Property and Surplus Auctions – Law enforcement agencies seize and impound vehicles from law-breakers and sell them at public Police Impound Auctions, for bargain prices. Many are high-end late-model luxury vehicles in perfect condition. These agencies also sell Surplus Vehicles that are being replaced with newer vehicles. These auctions are conducted regularly and are open to the public.

Rebuildable Wrecked Cars – If you have mechanical skills, Buying and Rebuilding a Wrecked Car can be a way to a cheap ride. Cars that have been declared total losses by insurance companies can often be purchased as salvage vehicles and project cars for almost nothing. Many of these vehicles have little damage and can be rebuilt and restored to good running order for little money.

Unclaimed and Abandoned Car Auctions – Cities and towing companies pick up unclaimed abandoned vehicles every day from the sides of streets, highways, and parking lots. They try to find the owners, but if they can’t, the cars are sold at auction, often for almost nothing. The cars can range from junkers to almost-new vehicles. See our article, How to Find and Buy Unclaimed Cars.

If you are looking for a good cheap car, start with the suggestions above and remember to take extra caution to make sure you don’t get scammed and that you get what you pay for. Used cars are sold “as-is” which means that you have no right to get your money back once the sale has been made. It’s always a good idea to have your car inspected by a qualified mechanic before you make the purchase.

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We wondered about that question too. Are there certain cars that most people are buying, asking about, seeking information about, and asking for pricing on? What car makes and models are most popular? Are they the best cars to buy?

Well, we went to one of the most-visited used-car web sites, UsedCars.com, and found such a list. Actually, the site compiles a real-time list of the makes and models that their site visitors most often request information about, which is an indicator of the most popular cars.

The most-popular car list can change from day to day, but not by much. A vehicle that is #1 today might fall to #2 tomorrow, and vice versa, because the rankings depend on what online visitors to their web site are asking about and searching for on any particular day.  

Here’s the current list of most popular used cars at the time of this writing:

Notice that Honda is on top. Why? Because Honda is the most reliable brand of automobile. Used Honda cars will continue to run reliably almost forever if maintained properly.

The Ford F-150 is next. It’s the best selling make/model new vehicle of all time. No wonder it’s also in the top three of used cars too.

Toyota is just behind Honda in reliability and high-resale value, so it is no surprise the popular Camry model is on the list. Other Toyota models are popular too.

Then there’s the Ford Explorer, the most popular SUV, and the Ford Mustang, the most popular affordable performance car.

Finally, there are the Nissan Maxima and Altima, high in reliability and resale value, just not quite as high as Honda and Toyota. But many people like Nissan’s styling, particularly young people, better than Honda and Toyota.

Where to buy

If you prefer buying your used car from an individual private seller, you can find them in newspaper classifed ads, in free “auto trader” magazines at your local auto parts store or supermarket, and online on the Internet. We suggest you also look on eBay.com at their list of .

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Car payment calculation is not simple math. It requires a rather complex business math formula that is not easily done by hand and most people are not capable, or not willing, to take it on. It’s not as simple as dividing loan amount by the number of months in the loan. Finance charges (interest), which change every month, must be accounted for.

It’s much easier to use a hand-held business calculator, such as the HP 12c or HP 17b, or, even better, use an easy online auto loan calculator which does the math for you.

To use a car loan calculator, you must know the amount being financed, the number of months you want to finance, and the interest rate. You’ll also need to know the down payment amount, if any, and the value of your trade-in vehicle, if any. You also need to know the sales tax rate that applies to your home location, not where you buy your car.

How Car Payments Work

It’s a fact of life. Anytime you borrow money for a car, a house, or for credit card purchases, the lender wants you to pay an extra amount (interest) for your use of his money. The more money you use (borrow), and the longer your payoff term, the more you pay.

The way in which car loan payments are calculated sets a fixed monthly payment figure that includes two parts: 1) a part that repays some of the principal ( the amount you borrow), and 2) a part that pays interest (finance charges) on your outstanding balance.

Since your loan balance (principal) decreases with each monthly payment, the amount of interest in your payment also decreases and the amount going towards your loan balance increases. 

This means that in the early months of your loan, you pay a lot of interest and less principal. As you move toward the end of your loan, you pay less interest and more principal. In other words, you pay off your loan faster at the end than at the beginning. 

No two month’s payments are exactly the same in the amounts of the two parts, although the total payment is always the same (except for possibly the last payment which is usually less).

One possible problem with the way that car loans are structured is that the small amount of principal being paid in the beginning of the loan term may not pay the loan balance down as fast as the value of the vehicle depreciates.

This means you may be “upside down” — you owe more on your loan than your car is worth — during much of your loan term, which can be a problem if you decide to sell or trade before your loan is paid off, or nearly paid off. It can also be a problem if your car is stolen or totaled in an accident. Insurance companies pay you what the car is worth, not the amount you still owe on your loan. 

If you decide on a long-term loan (more than 48 months), or have a high interest rate, or make little or no down payment, or roll over negative equity from a previous car loan, you are almost assured of being upside down for most of your new loan term.

Some banks and loan companies allow you to make extra payments or pay more each month toward principle, which ends your loan sooner, lowers total finance costs, and reduces the chance of being upside down. Contact your bank or loan company to make arrangements.

Calculating car loan payments is easy if you use an online car loan calculator.

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New or first-time car buyers are often surprised at being turned down for a car loan because they have no credit history, which unfortunately has about the same effect as having bad credit.

Lenders want to see that a borrower has a good record with previous loans and credit cards. Without a history of credit, a borrower represents a risk to lenders. If they don’t know a borrower’s history, they take the low road and assume the worst.

It’s a familiar “catch-22″ situation in that you can’t get a loan to establish credit without already having credit. So what is the answer?

What is the answer?

The most common solution is to have someone “co-sign” your loan contract. Typicallly, it’s family member who has a good credit score. A co-signer plays no part in the loan unless the primary borrower fails to make payments. In that case, the loan company would have the right to seek payment from the co-signer.

A co-signer does not share ownership of your vehicle. If you pay off your loan on time and without problems, the co-signer has no further role, rights, or responsiblities. Their job is finished.

Even if you default on your loan and the co-signer has to step in and make payments, he/she still has no owership rights. The car would still be in your name. Many people who co-sign do not understand this important point.

Another point important for co-signers to understand is that a co-signed loan or lease shows up on both the borrower’s credit report and the co-signer’s as a financial obligation or debt. This may affect the co-signer’s ability to get a new loan or lease for themselves. It increases their “debt load” which is a factor that is considered when one applies for new credit.

However, on the postive side, if you pay off your loan with no problems, both you and the co-signer benefit from the good credit report.

You should take care in selecting a co-signer. Since approval of your loan will depend on their credit worthiness, the person should have a strong and healthy credit history, a steady source of income, and not have excessive debt. For most new car buyers, this will probably be a close family member.

If you have already shown a history of financial irresponsibility, you may have difficulty finding someone who is willing to assume responsibility for your new obligations. Like the banks or loan companies, your potential co-signers may not want to take on the added responsibility and credit debt load. If the co-signer is not able to take over payment when the primary borrower defaults, both the borrower’s and the co-signer’s credit score are damaged.

If you can’t find a co-signer

If you can’t find someone who will co-sign for you, you have few other options. You may have to work out your transportation needs another way while you save enough money to get started with an inexpensive used car, while building your credit history so that you won’t need a co-signer the next time. Get a couple of credit cards or department store cards, use them often, and pay them off each month.

You could also try a used car dealer who specializes in working with people with bad credit, such as Drivetime.com. They have 78 locations around the country and offer a wide selection of used cars. This type of dealer its their own loans, which means it won’t help — or hurt — your credit.

Summary

Getting a co-signer is a great way to start building your own credit history. If you make your payments on time, don’t skip payments, and don’t default on your loan, you’ll be in great shape for your next loan — without a co-signer.

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First time car buyers have a choice of buying a brand new car, or buying a used car. Which is better?

There are advantages and disadvantages to either choice. Most people would rather have a brand new car with its new-car smell and latest style, but there are reasons that a new car might not be the best choice. Let’s take a look at the pros and cons of buying new and buying used.

Advantages of Buying New

• You get a brand new car with new-car feel and smell
• You get the latest style and technology
• You get the latest safety equipment
• You get a full manufacturer’s warranty
• You get Lemon Law protection
• You get lowest loan interest rates, if you qualify
• You get the option to lease
• You may get special manufacturer-sponsored pricing and financing

Disadvantages of Buying New

• Value of a new car depreciates rapidly
• Insurance rates may be higher than used
• Taxes may be higher

Advantages of Buying Used

• You avoid the high first-year depreciation of value
• If you buy almost-new, you may get same styling and technology as new car, at a lower price
• You get price flexibility by choosing between different model years, mileage, and condition
• You may buy “certified” vehicles with inspection and warranty – at higher cost
• You get lower insurance costs than same new model
• You get lower sales tax and personal property tax

Disadvantages of Buying Used

• You buy “as-is” unless some manufacturer warranty remains
• Lemon laws don’t apply to used cars
• You may be buying someone else’s problem, unless you have your vehicle inspected
• You risk buying a wrecked or salvage vehicle, unless you run a CARFAX Vehicle History Report
• You typically don’t have a lease option
• You pay higher interest rates
• You may get fewer safety features

 Summary

To summarize, buying a used car can be a better value for your money but it comes with higher risks.

If you are looking for cheap used cars, read the article Finding Cheap Cars for suggestions on where and how to find them.

Find already-discounted used cars at dealers in your area at UsedCars.com, the largest online used car source.

For online pre-discounted prices on new cars, see Yahoo! Autos . Price quotes are free and easy. Get multiple quotes so that you can compare deals.

Any used car purchase should include an extensive test drive, an inspeciton by a qualified mechanic, and a CARFAX Vehicle History Report. Also consider buying an extended warranty.

If you’re considering an almost-new vehicle, make sure you can’t get the same vehicle, new, at about the same price, which can happen if the manufacturer is offering special promotional deals. See Best Car Deals for cars that currently have special incentives, rebates, and low-interest loans.

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Until relatively recent times, it was standard for car dealers and finance companies to require at least 20% down payment on the purchase of a car. It was for a good reason.

Because cars depreciate in value from the moment they are driven off a dealer’s lot, a down payment helps offset that rapid decrease in value, which may keep the loan from becoming “upside down.”  It also protects the loan company or bank because, if they have to repossess the vehicle, they have a smaller risk of losing money.

Things are different now
Auto manufacturers and dealers are now very competitive and business must be fought for. They are willing to take risks that were unheard of just a few years ago. In many cases, down payment requirements have been reduced or eliminated altogether, primarily for customers with good credit.

Even if you have good credit, accepting a “no down payment” deal is not wise. Because your vehicle will depreciate in value faster than your monthly payments pay down your loan, you will be upside down for most of your loan term.

So, what is the problem with being upside down?
First, if you decide to sell or trade your vehicle before your loan is paid off, or nearly paid off, you’ll get a nasty surprise. You’ll find that you still owe more on your loan than your vehicle is worth. Maybe thousands of dollars more. You’ll have to find the extra money to pay off your loan.

Second, if your car is stolen or totaled in an accident, your insurance pays only what the car is worth, not what you still owe on your loan, which again, could be thousands of dollars difference. In order to pay off your loan after the accident, you must come up with the additional cash on your own.

How much down payment?
A down payment not only helps you avoid the problems of being upside down, but it also serves to lower your monthly payment. The amount by which it reduces your payment depends on the amount of the loan, the amount of the down payment, the length (term) of the loan, and the interest rate. You can use an auto loan calculator to play around with the numbers to find out the effect of different down payment amounts.

A good rule of thumb is 20% for a down payment. You can take advantage of manufacturers’ rebates, which can be used as a down payment. If you can’t do 20 percent,  do the best you can.

In some cases, especially if you have poor credit, the bank or finance company will dictate how much down payment you must make to get a car loan from them. It’s usually not negotiable. If it’s more than you can pay, try other banks, credit unions, or loan companies.

If you have poor credit, you might consider looking for your car at a dealer such as Drivetime.com, who specializes in working with buyers who have less-than-perfect credit. They have dealerships all over the country.

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Most car dealers do not directly finance loans on cars they sell. They work with outside banks and finance companies to provide loans for their customers. It’s up to those banks and finance companies, not the dealer, to approve and provide customers car loans.

However, a different breed of used car dealer, called  ”buy-here-pay-here” dealers,  do provide their own financing without an outside bank or loan company. They primarily function to sell used cars to people who have bad credit and cannot get approved for loans from conventional sources.

Buy-here-pay-here (BHPH) dealers can be recognized by their promotional ads or storefront signs. They use the terms “easy finance” or “no credit checks” or “we finance anybody” or “in-house financing” or “fast loan approval” or “we approve you regardless of your credit.”  They are sometimes called “tote the note” dealers.

How do buy-here-pay-here dealers work?
BHPH dealers typically sell older used cars for higher-than-market prices. They may ask for a down payment that essentially covers their investment in the car. Then the customer pays off the rest of the amount with a high-interest loan, which is the dealer’s profit.  There is no credit check because the interest rate charged is the highest allowed by the usury laws in that state.

The loan might be divided into 12-18 months of payments that are set up on a strict weekly or bi-weekly schedule. In many cases, the payments must be made at the dealership in cash or money-order. Personal checks are often not accepted.

Many BHPH dealers use special devices on the cars to make sure that customers pay on time and don’t skip town. One device is a starter interrupter. If a customer is late with one payment by even a day, the car will not start, and cannot be reenabled until the payment is made and a special code is punched into the device. If a payment is missed (late by more than a couple of days), the car will be immediately repossessed — no 30 day grace period. A GPS locator device hidden on the car tells the dealer where the car can be found.

If a car is repossessed, it is usually placed back on the sales lot to be sold to the next customer. BHPH dealers normally do not report repossessions to credit agencies. In some cases, a repossessed car might be sold at wholesale auction and the customer billed for the balance of his loan. This can happen if the car has been damaged or wrecked.

Should you use a buy-here-pay-here dealer?
Buying a car from a buy-here-pay-here dealer is an expensive option, but if it is your only option, and you know how it works, then you can use it.

Make your loan as short as possible to reduce the effects of the high interest rate. Have the car inspected by a qualified mechanic before you buy because such cars are sold “as-is” without warranties or guarantees. The dealer is not obligated to fix problems after the sale. Check out the dealer at your local Better Business Bureau (find their web site or call them on the phone).

Don’t expect your credit to improve if you make all your payments on time. Just as BHPH dealers don’t check your credit when you buy, they also do not report your good (or bad) payment record to the credit agencies. Unless your credit score improves for other reasons, you’ll end your loan with the same bad credit as when you started.

Summary
In summary, buy-here-pay-here dealers exist for a reason: to sell cars to people who have bad credit or no credit and are not able to buy a car any other way. On the other hand, they are often viewed as predatory, taking advantage of people’s misfortune with high prices and maximum-allowed interest rates.

You may be able to get a better deal from conventional discount used car dealers in your area. You can get free prices quotes from these dealers from the UsedCars.com web site. These dealers may also be able to find you a loan source.

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Here’s how to determine a fair price for brand new cars (see below for used-car pricing).

All new cars have a window sticker that displays the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP). It may also include destination charges, dealer-installed option prices, and other miscellaneous charges. The total of these charges is the price you would pay for that vehicle, less sales tax, without any discounts or rebates.

All these charges but destination charge can be negotiated. Manaufacturers charge dealers this fee for vehicle delivery, and dealers simply pass it along to customers without markup. It cannot be eliminated from the cost of a car.

Price can be negotiated for most vehicles. Unless the vehicle is a hot seller and in short demand, it’s usually possible to get dealers to discount the MSRP. But, how much? What’s the best price I can expect?

Here’s your strategy for negotiating price.

1. Get online price quotes

Use Internet car buying/pricing services to get price quotes. The quotes are free and you are not obligated in any way to accept them. We recommend you get quotes from multiple services so that you’ll have a number of prices to compare. The best sources for free quotes are:

• Yahoo! Autos
• InvoiceDealers
• Edmunds.com

The prices come from dealers in your area. Even though the prices are discounted, you may be able to do better if you are a good negotiator.

2. Learn about rebates and incentives

Visit Best Car Deals for information and advice about current car incentives, rebates, lease deals, and low interest loans, including 0% APR loan deals.

Also go back to Edmunds.com (see link above) and click on the New Cars section ”Rebates and Incentives” link. You’ll be shown the current incentive programs, if any, for the vehicle you’re interested in. Any price quotes you receive should already include any Customer Cash-Back Incentives, but you should verify this to make sure. If there are Dealer Marketing Support incentives, dealers are not required to share that money with customers, but many do.

3. Get dealer invoice prices

Invoice price is the wholesale price that a dealer is charged for a vehicle by the manufacturer. Dealers make their profit by selling at a margin over invoice price. Essentially, the best deal you should expect to get on a car purchase is something above invoice price, but less than MSRP, allowing the dealer to make some profit, which is needed to stay in business.

Get invoice prices for any vehicle make and model at Edmunds (see link above). It’s free.  Also check Edmunds’  TMV (True Market Value) price for your vehicle. It’s their best estimate of how much other people are actually paying for that car.

It is possible under certain conditions that you may be able to buy for less than invoice price. 

How so?

Dealers get certain bonuses and holdback fees from the manufacturer when vehicles are sold, especially when sales goals are reached. This reduces the actual cost of a vehicle to the dealer. Furthermore, any factory-to-dealer cash-back rebates (Marketing Support, mentioned above) also serve to reduce cost. If a dealer is willing to share some or all of these cost reductions with customers, your purchase price can actually fall below invoice price.

How much over invoice?

Here’s a good rule of thumb: On cars whose MSRP is $20,000 or less, offer $500 over invoice. For cars with MSRP of $20,000 to $30,000, offer $1000 over invoice. And for cars with MSRP over $30,000, offer $2000 over invoice. This assumes the dealer is getting no rebates or marketing support from his manufacturer.

These are only suggestions. If the car you want is in short supply due to heavy demand, you might not be able to get much of a discount at all. If it is a slow seller at the end of the model year when a dealer has plenty of inventory, you may be able to do better than invoice price, assuming there are manufacturer incentives. 

What to Pay for Used Cars — What’s a Good Price?

Used cars can vary in price depending on year model, mileage, and condition.

The best way to determine a fair price for a used car is to check with one or more used-car pricing guides such as Kelley Blue Book (www.kbb.com), NADA Guides (www.nadaguides.com), Edmunds (www.edmunds.com). Sellers generally use these guides to set their asking prices.

Private sellers often price their cars too high, allowing some room to negotiate with potential buyers.

Don’t fall into the trap of negotiating a price down, only to find out you still paid too much. For example, a dealer could set an asking price of $8000 on a car that worth only $6000. When a buyer comes in and talks the price down to $7000, he may think he’s gotten a bargain. However, the dealer made $1000 more than he should on the sale — and the buyer paid $1000 too much.

Dealer prices are generally higher than if a car is purchased from an individual.  However, UsedCars.com lists cars at local dealers at already-discounted prices. You can get free no-obligation price quotes online, which saves a lot of time when price shopping.

If you prefer to buy your car from an individual private seller, you can find hundreds for sale on the eBay Motors web site.

Prices are almost always negotiable. Dealers and individual sellers actually expect buyers to negotiate and set prices accordingly. Asking prices are generally about 10%-20% higher than sellers are willing to sell for. Dealers typically make more profit per-car on used cars than on brand new cars.

If a car is being advertised for an unusually low price, it’s probably for a reason. The car may have problems that the seller may not mention unless you ask. Beware of bargain prices unless you understand the reason.

Used car prices can also vary by area of the country. Convertibles, for example, are more expensive in sunny Florida than in chilly Vermont. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are in greater demand, and more expensive, in states with bad winters. Small compact cars are popular in college towns. Trucks are more in-demand in rural areas.

Use Kelley Blue Book and NADA Guides to check a used car you think you want to buy. Then have a mechanic check it over for problems. Any problems found, if you still want to buy the car, should be used to negotiate the selling price down further.

Also get a CarFax (www.carfax.com) vehicle history report to find out if the car has ever been seriously wrecked or totaled.

Beware of buying used cars on automobile clasified ad sites such as Craigslist and Autotrader, or even from newspaper classifieds web sites. Read about a common car sales scam in this article.

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If you’ve decided that your first car will be a brand new car, there are things you need to know about the buying and financing process that makes it different from buying a used car.

New cars – only from dealers
All new cars must  be purchased from state-licensed and manufacturer-authorized new-car dealers. It’s the law. It’s the only way you can buy a new car.

If a car has never been titled or registered, it’s considered to be a new car. Even if you initiate your purchase through an Internet car buying service, or through a buying service at warehouse stores such as Sam’s Club, the car actually comes from a local new-car dealer.

New car pricing
New cars always have a sticker in the window (it’s the law) showing the particulars about the vehicle, including estimated gas mileage, options, features, and MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price).

MSRP is the “retail” price that is almost always discounted, except for vehicles in short supply and high demand. Very few car buyers pay full retail price. New cars frequently have manufacturer-sponsored discounts, rebates and low-interest financing deals.  These are called incentives. You can get online price quotes from services such as Yahoo! Autos . These prices are already discounted by local dealers and contain any current incentives.

Then there is “invoice price” which is the wholesale price dealers pay, and which you should know when buying a new car. See What to Pay for Your New Car for more details.

The new-car buying  process
After deciding on the new car you want, you’ll settle on a price with a dealer salesperson or sales manager. You’ll sign a purchase agreement that specifies the price, other costs, fees, and taxes. If you have a trade-in vehicle, the agreement will show the trade credit you’re receiving. If you’re still paying off your loan on the old vehicle, your agreement form will show that amount as well (see Trade-in Process – How It Works). You will also sign an odometer statement certifying that the displayed mileage on your old car is correct and that you haven’t tampered with the odometer.

About your credit – it is important
Dealers often check customers’ credit rating to weed out those who can’t afford to buy or lease. But it’s the finance company who will do a more thorough credit check and make the final decision on your loan or lease approval. If you don’t know your credit score, get it at MyFico.com.

The F&I guy
You’ll visit the dealer’s Finance and Insurance (F&I) manager’s office where you’ll finalize your purchase. The F&I manager is responsible not only for getting your paperwork done but to also try to sell you on extended warranties, service plans, paint sealant, fabric protectant, window etchings, security systems, credit insurance, disability insurance, and a host of other products or services that make the dealer more profit. Most such add-on products and services should be avoided.

Buying with a loan
If you’re buying with a loan, the agreement will show your loan terms, down payment, interest rate, monthly payment amount, and total costs. You may also sign a bailment agreement that essentially says that the dealer will arrange your loan financing for you with a finance company or bank of his choosing, and that if the finance company won’t approve your loan, that you must return your vehicle or arrange other terms.

Get auto insurance
Arrange with an insurance company before you buy. Then on the day you buy, call the insuance company and give them the vehicle  information they need to complete your policy. If you don’t yet have insurance, see the article, How to Buy Car Insurance.

The paperwork
In most states, you’ll also be asked for proof of insurance and supply a photo ID. You might be asked to complete a registration and tag application form as well. State and local laws may require you to sign other forms that are unique to your area.

Out the door
You’ll write a check for your down payment, taxes, and other fees that are required to paid up-front. You’ll turn over keys to your trade vehicle. You’ll probably be given a brief lesson in operating your vehicle, an explanation of the dealer’s service facilities, a set of owner’s manuals, and your keys. The salesperson will also explain how you’ll be receiving a satisfaction survey from the car manufacturer, and that it’s important that you complete and return it – with a perfect score, or course, for the dealership and salesperson.

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Let’s say you see a nice used car that you like on a dealer’s lot that is priced at $14,000. Is it a good price? Can I talk the dealer down to, say, $12,000? How much discount can I expect to get?

These are all common questions when shopping for used cars, especially if it’s your first car.

Let’s look at the answers.

Used car prices can vary greatly – even for the same make, model, year, and condition. Prices tend to follow the laws of supply and demand. Large gas-guzzling SUVs are cheaper in times of high gas prices. Convertibles are more expensive in sunny Florida than in cold North Dakota. Used car prices are cheaper when dealers have too many on their lots.

Dealers are experts at knowing local car-buying customers, what they want, and what they are willing to pay. They set their used car prices accordingly. However, dealers make more profit on used cars than on brand new cars. This means there is a lot of “wiggle room” in used car prices – a relatively large difference between what the dealer has invested in his cars and the prices he sets for those cars. Unfortunately, there is no way for us as consumers to know what a dealer has paid for his used cars.

Check prices to know what is fair

The first step to getting a fair price on a used car is to find out how much the car is worth. Is the dealer’s asking price fair or not? If not, then it is time for some negotiation.

Some newcomers to car buying assume that there is some kind of “standard” price for used cars. It is not true. However, there are used-car pricing guides, such as Kelley Blue Book and NADA Guides, that compile data from a variety of sources to publish their version of suggested prices, based on make, model, year, equipment, mileage, condition, and region of the country.

These guides often differ significantly in prices for the same vehicle, same mileage, same everything. Confused car buyers often ask, “Which is right?” or “Which is more accurate?”  Neither is more right or more accurate. However, the guides serve as a good benchmark for determining a fair price for a car you may be considering to buy. For example, if a dealer is asking $14,000 for a car that the guides show as only being worth $10,000, he’s asking too much and it’s time to negotiate a fairer price.

If you don’t check prices

We’ve seen questions from car buyers who ask something like, “How much can I talk a dealer down on this $14,000 car?”  The answer to the question is really another question. It is not so much how much you can talk him down, as it is how much is the car worth?

For example, a dealer may put a $14,000 price on a car that is worth only $10,000. He hopes that he’ll get a customer who hasn’t done her price research and who will “talk him down” to $12,000. The customer is happy because she thinks she got a $2000 price discount, and the dealer is happy because he sold the car for $2000 more than it was worth.

Asking prices are not selling prices

Nearly all used cars are sold for a price that is less than the original “asking” price. Dealers post asking prices on used car window stickers. Individuals selling used cars advertise them with asking prices. Dealer asking prices may be 20% or more higher than selling prices. Individuals usually price their cars about 10% higher than the price they are willing to accept.

Negotiate based on car’s condition

If you find a car you like and the price seems fair for a car in good to excellent condition, make sure you get a mechanic’s inspection and have the mechanic document any problems he finds. Assuming the problems are not serious enough to stop you from buying the car, use the mechanic’s report to negotiate for a lower price.

Also get a Carfax vehicle history report and do the same thing. If the car has been in an accident, even if the repairs have been done expertly, use the information to try to get a better price.

Where to buy

Used-car dealers are an obvious source of  used cars but it takes time to visit and find out which ones have cars you might be interested in. One way to save time is use an online site such as UsedCars.com that lets you search for discounted cars from dealers in your area.

If you prefer to buy from a private seller individual instead of a dealer, we suggest you look at the eBay Motors web site for a list of .

If you have less-than-perfect credit, your car buying choices may be limited to dealers, such as Drivetime.com, who specialize is dealing with people with credit problems. They have dealerships around the country.

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